Day 5 - Ullapool to Lochboisdale South Uist (Outer Hebrides)

May 13, 2022

Day 5 - Ullapool to Lochboisdale - South Uist (Outer Hebrodes)

Friday 13/05/2022

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We were shattered when we got back to the campsite from Ullapool and we had an early night. We both slept well but unfortunately woke to wind and rain again, packing away our wet tents into our dry dry-bags.....

We rode back down to the ferry port at Ullapool, checked-in and then went to a local shop for breakfast and snacks before catching the ferry. The boat was reasonably busy, but only one other biker, a German called Stefan who joined us for a part of today's journey. He was on an epic cross European trip - thanks to some negotiated unpaid leave from his work.

We spent a couple of hours on the ferry then got off at Stornoway on Lewis. We headed up across a very windy moor to Arnor, where we looked at an old peat-bog longhouse before heading to Callanish to visit a stone circle which was very interesting and scenic.

We then headed south towards Harris (much cooler mountain scenery), where we rode on a tiny mountain and coastal track towards Huisnish, a remote beach complete with white sands and turquoise water. Riding to Tarbert we said our goodbyes to Stefan and carried on South on the Faroes-like scenery to Leverburgh. We stopped for fuel, an incredible food van (best fish and chips ever) and a ferry across the Sound of Harris to Berenay for the evening.

From here we headed to a Coop in Solas on North Uist where we recovered a cycle helmet for a friend left behind on their trip, feeling a little bit of purpose in our trip to the end of the world! The rest of the evening we blasted South to a hostel south of Lochboisdale in the sunset, enjoying the white sands and islands all around despite spotty rain. We pulled into the hostel and have the bunkhouse to ourselves- and great facilities although we're not looking like we'll stay long due to tomorrow's early boat!

Very long day and we really skimmed the Outer Hebrides. Lewis was less impressive than Harris and bits of Uist are very reminiscent of the Faroe Islands. As discussed with the bunkhouse owner, we really didn't do the place justice and only just got a taste of it. Would need to spend a lot more time here to get the best out of experience.

Whilst the rain wasn't shocking today, the winds and gusts were impressive. It was the first time I have ever leant right on my motorbike and gone left. Still, I was more relaxed with the weather today and it didn't phase me so much.

Tomorrow we rise at 4am to get the boat back to Mallaig and make our way down to Mull. Hard day, but a rewarding one. I think it's windy here most of the time, like on the Faroe islands. Still, it wasn't cold and the rain was mostly heavy showers rather than the persistent deluge of yesterday.